It is a small town, it's official population around 11,000, although a resident told me it is probably closer to 16,000, nestled between the shore of Lake Chapala and a verdant mountain range. Brightly painted buildings and muraled walls line narrow cobblestone streets. White and gray doves fly between the trees that fill the town square and congregate on the eaves of the bandshell in it's center. Small shops sell colorful crafts. On one square similar wares are vended from tables. Two venerable churches are located near the town center. One sits directly on the square, the main one is a couple of blocks away. It's bell tower looms over the town. What is not a century old is built to appear as if it was. Most of the sizable expat community is retired. There is little to do there. That seems to be the point, a life of quiet tranquility.
From my room with it's commodious balcony facing the lake I watch white pelicans glide by. Tiny finches with bright yellow breasts perch on the balcony railing. Men in cowboy hats and jeans ride horses down the road I can see from the balcony, their hoofs clattering on the stone street. At night lights from other small villages and towns on the other side of the lake twinkle.
There is a single gay bar, walking distance from my hotel. I go there late Sunday afternoon. The men and women all seem to know one another, as is the norm in smaller towns.
I rest, relax, shop, read, write and walk the narrow streets. When I mention the quiet to locals they point out that if you want noise Guadalajara is only 45 minutes away.