Late 19th century Mexican architecture is a curious mix of styles. Colonial influences, arches and thick stucco walls, perhaps a reaction to the climate, are wed to Baroque ornamentation that would not be uncommon in any number of European cities. My now Facebook friend with a real life face told me that a historic preservation movement had begun in 1980 when many citizens became concerned that the city was losing much of what made it unique. During my last visit I stayed in a hacienda dating from around 1880 that had been converted into a guesthouse. The owner told me that, before he did the renovations, the preservation committee showed up with original blueprints for the structure in hand. They eventually did approve, but did express concern, about a staircase in the back of the building that was not original to it. He found himself patiently explaining to them that it was there when he bought the place, he had not added it on. These preservation people are some serious folks. As we walked through the Colonia Americana neighborhood admiring the beautiful homes there my friend said that you would occasionally see a historic building in a sad state of disrepair. Whoever owned the property was not allowed to tear the structure down, but, if it collapsed, the ground underneath became fair game. Throughout the city a historic building abuts a more modern, faceless one. Some European cities, heavily bombed during World War II, have the same juxtaposition. My own home town of Chicago also bears a few architectural missteps, despite it's wealth of 19th and 20th century facades and interiors.
We came to a plaza. At one end stood a 19th century cathedral designed in the gothic revival style. He pointed out the the steeple which, from the outside, looks as if it were carved stone. We entered. The steeple was not stone but stained glass. It was breathtaking. The interior space soared supported by thick, heavy hand carved stone columns. I found myself awed by the engineering needed to construct this place. Along the sides were a few more modern windows depicting religious figures that had been killed during the Mexican socialist revolution. On the outside, although we were not there at a time when we could witness it, when the hour strikes two small doors open on the bell tower and religious figures parade out around a track that runs between them.
Our last stop, before we parted ways, was the art museum of the University of Guadalajara, the Museo de las Artes. It is also housed in a late 19th century building. It has more of a Baroque influence, as opposed to the Gothic influence of the cathedral. Alas, the museum was closed as it was a Monday, but there was an exhibition of bold, muscular metal sculpture outside, some of which seemed to almost defy gravity. My new found friend told me there was an Orozco mural inside which was a must see. I made plans in my head to return on Wednesday. It, and the church, I would have been completely unaware of had it not been for his reconnaissance work prior to meeting up with him. We parted ways, he off to his daily Spanish class, I to walk back through the city to my hotel.
No comments:
Post a Comment