The town of Jackson is small, under 9000 people, and tall, over 6000 feet above sea level. The adjective we decided best describes it's historical center, most of which dates form the first three decades of the 20th century, is cute. As in West Yellowstone, log structures mix with traditional "Wild West" architecture. Most of the sidewalks in the central district, many of them wood, are protected from the weather by the eaves and balconies of the buildings that line them. On each of the corner entrances of the town square is a large arch constructed of the antlers shed each spring by the local population of elk. An annual event in Jackson is an auction of these antlers, collected by enterprising Boy Scouts, from the nearby elk preserve. A war memorial, topped with a statue of a cowboy on a horse, rearing up, front legs in the air, stands in the center of the square. The cowboy and the rearing horse seems to be a trademark of Jackson as it can be seen in several different incarnations throughout the town.
At one point, we get an old meets new moment when we see a long, lean man in traditional cowboy hat and boots, jeans and a sheepskin jacket, standing under the antler arch talking on his smart phone.
Among the sites of note in the historic district is St John's Episcopal Church. Constructed in 1915, it, like several other buildings in the town, is listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. As you explore the small historic district you see many buildings bearing plaques giving recognition by the town for renovations of structures over 50 years old. St John's is a small log structure. Inside, sunlight is filtered through diamond pane and new and original stained glass windows,. The warmth of the natural log walls and the soft light give the diminutive sanctuary an atmosphere of peace and serenity.
Our accomadations are in the "Cowboy Village Resort", a name that manages to sound butch and gay at the same time. It's logo is a cowboy, in full regalia, hat, boots and wide chaps, a cowboy queens fantasy man! It is a development of log cabins set side by side on the outside and in the center of a circular drive. It reminds me of a 1950"s era motor court.Our cabin is clean, compact but adequate, with a certain rustic charm. A small alcove contains a mini refridgerator/freezer, 2 burner stove and kitchen sink. The up to date bathroom contains a small window, which, unfortunately, looks directly into the cabin next door. Out the front door, from under the wide porch that runs along the front of the cabin, there is a view of one of the small hills that surround the town. It's chair lifts and ski runs are visible awaiting the snow and skiers which will arrive in droves later in the season. The sound of rain showers on the roof create a soothing white noise as we lie staring up at the large logs which support it.
The resorts anemnities include an indoor pool and hot tub, and a fitness center. Magpies flit through the trees and potted petunias hang from the eaves and lampposts still in full blossom even this late in the year.
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
The Grand Tetons - Our First Glimpse
We drove out the south entrance of Yellowstone towards our second destination, Grand Tetons National Park and Jackson, Wyoming. As we leave a series of signs, erected by the park Service, proclaim:
We Saw Wildlife
From Afar
Until We Hit Them
With Our Car
SLOW DOWN!
Spying the sign announcing the entry to the park we slowed down and stopped for a photo op. Stepping out of the car the first thing we noticed was the heavy pine scent to the cold mountain air. A man stopped at the same spot offers to take our photo together and also gives us news of the roads ahead. All are open except one which is closed due to a mother grizzly and her two cubs having taken up residence in the area. This road remains closed for the duration of our visit.
As we continue the glorious yellow leaves set against the white trunks of Aspens fill our view. A brilliant blue lake forms a backdrop to the leaves, white wood and evergreens. Then, we get our first look at the Grand Tetons mountain range. Magnificent, snow covered peaks rise straight up from the meadows that surround them as if dropped there by accident by some massive hand. Glaciers nestle near their craggy summits, waterfalls drop from heights that seem improbable. "Purple Mountains Majesty" could have been written with this range in mind as these peaks are truly majestic.
We pull into a scenic turnout and gaze in awe at this sight. It is a view we will return to several times over the next few days. At each return visit the sense of awe does not diminish.
We have been on the road for several hours. Fatigue and hunger are beginning to overtake us. Since we have several days here we bid the mountains farewell for the moment and head towards the ski resort town of Jackson.
We Saw Wildlife
From Afar
Until We Hit Them
With Our Car
SLOW DOWN!
Spying the sign announcing the entry to the park we slowed down and stopped for a photo op. Stepping out of the car the first thing we noticed was the heavy pine scent to the cold mountain air. A man stopped at the same spot offers to take our photo together and also gives us news of the roads ahead. All are open except one which is closed due to a mother grizzly and her two cubs having taken up residence in the area. This road remains closed for the duration of our visit.
As we continue the glorious yellow leaves set against the white trunks of Aspens fill our view. A brilliant blue lake forms a backdrop to the leaves, white wood and evergreens. Then, we get our first look at the Grand Tetons mountain range. Magnificent, snow covered peaks rise straight up from the meadows that surround them as if dropped there by accident by some massive hand. Glaciers nestle near their craggy summits, waterfalls drop from heights that seem improbable. "Purple Mountains Majesty" could have been written with this range in mind as these peaks are truly majestic.
We pull into a scenic turnout and gaze in awe at this sight. It is a view we will return to several times over the next few days. At each return visit the sense of awe does not diminish.
We have been on the road for several hours. Fatigue and hunger are beginning to overtake us. Since we have several days here we bid the mountains farewell for the moment and head towards the ski resort town of Jackson.
Thanks Teddy R!
We have Teddy Roosevelt to thank for creating this first of our National Parks and ensuring that it's wonders and beauty are preserved for the enjoyment and enrichment of all.
Discovering the Unexpected - Yellowstone's Waterfalls
While fooling around on the Internet one Sunday prior to our visit, I came across a website detailing the waterfalls of Yellowstone. I had never associated the park with waterfalls. I now stand informed. They range from tall, softly flowing ribbons of water to short powerful cascades. Hunting them out was a high point of our visit.
Kepler Cascades
This was the first water feature we visited. As the name implies, cascades of water flow into a river creating rapids at their base. They are viewed from a bridge built over the swiftly moving river.
Gibbon Falls
This waterfall is on the shorter side. It is split into two distinct parts. A gentle flow on one side, while the other side, forced through a more narrow opening, gushes powerfully before mingling in the river below with it's more placid other half.
Lewis Falls
Serendipitously discovered while we were on our way out of the park, this 30 foot high majestic cascade empties into a river which winds through marshes and a meadow clad in the beautiful golden hues of autumn.
Undine Falls
Set against a craggy rock wall, 3 large tiers of water empty into sloping rapids rumbling down a deep narrow channel.
Tower Falls
A beautiful and graceful lady, tall stone pinnacles stand along her sides like sentinels before her extremely long, narrow ribbon of water plunges to the valley far below.
Wraith Falls
This one requires a 1/4 mile stroll down a meadow trail and across boardwalks erected over fragile marshy wetlands. A thin sheet of water first slides down a sloping rock face and than a winding staircase cut by nature into the stone wall before disappearing into the small stream at it's base.
The last two mentioned here are the most powerful and best known falls in the park.
The Upper Falls
Strong, quickly moving rapids lead up to this muscular powerhouse of water. Caves have been carved into the red lichen spotted rock wall along one side of the top of these falls by the force of the river before it makes it's roaring plunge. The viewing platform at the brink of this waterfall is remarkably accessible. At it's base a river flows leading to -
The Lower Falls
Although reaching the brink of these falls could be difficult for some, it is well worth the effort. The falls, although beautiful, full and powerful, are not as awe inspiring as what they have created over the years, the "Grand Canyon of Yellowstone". A deep channel whose steep walls are shades of yellow, orange and gray. Evergreens line the canyon's top and sprout along the walls in crevices and outcroppings. The canyon is a place of supreme beauty which should not be missed.
Kepler Cascades
This was the first water feature we visited. As the name implies, cascades of water flow into a river creating rapids at their base. They are viewed from a bridge built over the swiftly moving river.
Gibbon Falls
This waterfall is on the shorter side. It is split into two distinct parts. A gentle flow on one side, while the other side, forced through a more narrow opening, gushes powerfully before mingling in the river below with it's more placid other half.
Lewis Falls
Serendipitously discovered while we were on our way out of the park, this 30 foot high majestic cascade empties into a river which winds through marshes and a meadow clad in the beautiful golden hues of autumn.
Undine Falls
Set against a craggy rock wall, 3 large tiers of water empty into sloping rapids rumbling down a deep narrow channel.
Tower Falls
A beautiful and graceful lady, tall stone pinnacles stand along her sides like sentinels before her extremely long, narrow ribbon of water plunges to the valley far below.
Wraith Falls
This one requires a 1/4 mile stroll down a meadow trail and across boardwalks erected over fragile marshy wetlands. A thin sheet of water first slides down a sloping rock face and than a winding staircase cut by nature into the stone wall before disappearing into the small stream at it's base.
The last two mentioned here are the most powerful and best known falls in the park.
The Upper Falls
Strong, quickly moving rapids lead up to this muscular powerhouse of water. Caves have been carved into the red lichen spotted rock wall along one side of the top of these falls by the force of the river before it makes it's roaring plunge. The viewing platform at the brink of this waterfall is remarkably accessible. At it's base a river flows leading to -
The Lower Falls
Although reaching the brink of these falls could be difficult for some, it is well worth the effort. The falls, although beautiful, full and powerful, are not as awe inspiring as what they have created over the years, the "Grand Canyon of Yellowstone". A deep channel whose steep walls are shades of yellow, orange and gray. Evergreens line the canyon's top and sprout along the walls in crevices and outcroppings. The canyon is a place of supreme beauty which should not be missed.
Yellowstone - Mammoth Hot Springs Traps Tourists
Mammoth Hot Springs is a small, very historic settlement at the far north end of the park. It is dominated by a huge white mound created by the superheated thermal features it contained within it which hiss and steam. A boardwalk, again, carries visitors who wish to view these around and over the massive mound. Nearby, mid and late 19th century buildings mingle with more modern structures and the elk herd which resides in the settlements central square.
This is the site of Fort Yellowstone, built to ensure law and order in the park before the founding of the National Park Service. The current Park Ranger uniforms are a holdover from that era. The fort, troop and officer quarters, constructed of limestone, which abounds in this area, still stand. The bachelor barracks are a dormitory like structure while the officer quarters, now private residences, form a line of gracious homes standing along the square. There is also a general store, now a gift shop, which, like many of the buildings, also dates from the late 1800's. Inside the former fort headquarters are exhibits detailing the history of Yellowstone. A modern hotel and restaurant, operated by a corporate concession, also sits here, somewhat out of character with the older architecture. It is apparent that many park visitors do not venture much farther into the park than this judging from their excitement regarding the elk herd grazing in the square. At this point, we had viewed scores of the animals in much more natural environs. We later saw a small group of modest, modern homes nestled in a valley nearby. Presumably these are the homes of the service personnel at the exhibits and concessions. As the saying goes; if you love nature and the park "It's nice work if you can get it."
This is the site of Fort Yellowstone, built to ensure law and order in the park before the founding of the National Park Service. The current Park Ranger uniforms are a holdover from that era. The fort, troop and officer quarters, constructed of limestone, which abounds in this area, still stand. The bachelor barracks are a dormitory like structure while the officer quarters, now private residences, form a line of gracious homes standing along the square. There is also a general store, now a gift shop, which, like many of the buildings, also dates from the late 1800's. Inside the former fort headquarters are exhibits detailing the history of Yellowstone. A modern hotel and restaurant, operated by a corporate concession, also sits here, somewhat out of character with the older architecture. It is apparent that many park visitors do not venture much farther into the park than this judging from their excitement regarding the elk herd grazing in the square. At this point, we had viewed scores of the animals in much more natural environs. We later saw a small group of modest, modern homes nestled in a valley nearby. Presumably these are the homes of the service personnel at the exhibits and concessions. As the saying goes; if you love nature and the park "It's nice work if you can get it."
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Yellowstone - Geothermal Wonders or God Dropped Acid
Perhaps the thing that Yellowstone is most known for is it's geothermal features. When we got close to Old Faithful it's next eruption was predicted to be at 1:37. I wondered how they could be so precise. We soon found out that the predicted time is not always the time of the actual eruption.
We got to the geyser early. We watched, with about 35 other people, as the famous geyser erupted at 1:15. As the crowd grew and 1:37 came and went, an unfortunate park ranger was sent out to tell the crowd that the eruption had already happened and the next one was not predicted to occur until 3:00. The geyser does not go very high, although the coldness of the ground this day may have dampened it's power. It did go on somewhat longer that I had expected however.
Other features are scattered about the park. The first of these we encountered required a short walk to a small pool of boiling water spouting a thick cloud of sulfurous steam. Boardwalks surround most of the sites as the geothermal features are very fragile and the earth around them is thin and can give way easily which would result in quite a nasty injury. Grisly signs repeatedly inform visitors of the dozen people that have burned to death.
At another point there were bubbling pots of mud. A small geyser spit water out of a diminutive cone. A somewhat larger geyser spouted off in the corner of a scalding pond. The ground was orange from the lichen growing around the boiling pools.
The colors of the Finger Paint pots look as if God took acid or a healthy dose of mushrooms before creating them. Brilliant blue, translucent pools reveal the white rock formations inside them. Around them grow various shades of green lichen. Here the orange color of the ground is the result of the sulphurous emissions from the pools. One very renown pool contains eye jarring, otherworldly bands of colors radiating from it's center to it's edge. Green pools remind me of Easter egg dyes.
Viewing the Artist's Paint Pots requires a walk through grove of evergreens which reminded me of a Christmas Tree lot. In this spot the sulfur steam has not only stained the ground orange, it has also turned the ferns growing in the area a bright red. There are bubbling pots of water colored white, pink, blue and green. Again, various shades of lichen thrive in an atmosphere that would be lethal to other plant life. The total effect is a mad kaleidoscope of colors, textures and motion.
Then there is the Mud Volcano. A boardwalk takes you past boiling pits of mud and steam. A crowd pleaser and my personal favorite spot is the Dragon's Mouth where steam escapes from a cave as scalding water simmers and leaps outside it's mouth.
The Midway Geyser basin contains some of the largest of the geothermal pools in the park. They are also some of the most difficult to view due to the enormous amounts of steam and sulfur emitted by them. The Opal Pool located here has an iridescent red edge that surrounds a deep blue center. There is a crater created by a massive geyser eruption with steaming water in it's deep basin. These are all set in a barren, almost lunar landscape where magma heated water streams in a thin sheet across the earth. This water eventually runs off into the Firehole River at the rate of 4000 gallons per minute.Waterfalls of the boiling water descend into the cool river down a riverbank stained orange and green. One waterfall appears to travel down a set of emerald green steps, the rock stained by lichen and eroded by time.
Steam rising from the numerous other hot spots in the rivers, creeks and lakes are a constant companion as you travel through this wondrous landscape.
We got to the geyser early. We watched, with about 35 other people, as the famous geyser erupted at 1:15. As the crowd grew and 1:37 came and went, an unfortunate park ranger was sent out to tell the crowd that the eruption had already happened and the next one was not predicted to occur until 3:00. The geyser does not go very high, although the coldness of the ground this day may have dampened it's power. It did go on somewhat longer that I had expected however.
Other features are scattered about the park. The first of these we encountered required a short walk to a small pool of boiling water spouting a thick cloud of sulfurous steam. Boardwalks surround most of the sites as the geothermal features are very fragile and the earth around them is thin and can give way easily which would result in quite a nasty injury. Grisly signs repeatedly inform visitors of the dozen people that have burned to death.
At another point there were bubbling pots of mud. A small geyser spit water out of a diminutive cone. A somewhat larger geyser spouted off in the corner of a scalding pond. The ground was orange from the lichen growing around the boiling pools.
The colors of the Finger Paint pots look as if God took acid or a healthy dose of mushrooms before creating them. Brilliant blue, translucent pools reveal the white rock formations inside them. Around them grow various shades of green lichen. Here the orange color of the ground is the result of the sulphurous emissions from the pools. One very renown pool contains eye jarring, otherworldly bands of colors radiating from it's center to it's edge. Green pools remind me of Easter egg dyes.
Viewing the Artist's Paint Pots requires a walk through grove of evergreens which reminded me of a Christmas Tree lot. In this spot the sulfur steam has not only stained the ground orange, it has also turned the ferns growing in the area a bright red. There are bubbling pots of water colored white, pink, blue and green. Again, various shades of lichen thrive in an atmosphere that would be lethal to other plant life. The total effect is a mad kaleidoscope of colors, textures and motion.
Then there is the Mud Volcano. A boardwalk takes you past boiling pits of mud and steam. A crowd pleaser and my personal favorite spot is the Dragon's Mouth where steam escapes from a cave as scalding water simmers and leaps outside it's mouth.
The Midway Geyser basin contains some of the largest of the geothermal pools in the park. They are also some of the most difficult to view due to the enormous amounts of steam and sulfur emitted by them. The Opal Pool located here has an iridescent red edge that surrounds a deep blue center. There is a crater created by a massive geyser eruption with steaming water in it's deep basin. These are all set in a barren, almost lunar landscape where magma heated water streams in a thin sheet across the earth. This water eventually runs off into the Firehole River at the rate of 4000 gallons per minute.Waterfalls of the boiling water descend into the cool river down a riverbank stained orange and green. One waterfall appears to travel down a set of emerald green steps, the rock stained by lichen and eroded by time.
Steam rising from the numerous other hot spots in the rivers, creeks and lakes are a constant companion as you travel through this wondrous landscape.
Yellowstone - Senic Beauty
The wildlife of Yellowstone wanders through a place of awesome scenic beauty. Our first day the trees and ground carried a blanket of brilliant white snow. When it melted autumn gold meadows with patches of purple sage were revealed. Rising high above them were sheer rugged cliffs of limestone and prehistoric volcanic rock dotted with evergreens. In the distance, majestic snow covered mountains could be seen . Sulfurous steam from the park's geothermal features floated across the fields and meadows. The high altitude allows one to cross the Continental Divide several times as you travel the winding roads.
A massive wild fire in 1988 burned 40% of the park. Some mountainsides were untouched by the fire and boast large stands of old growth forest. In the fire affected areas young trees have taken root among the remains of their charred ancestors, growing thick and lush. Occasionally you can see a more mature tree, miraculously spared by the fire, standing tall among it's younger brothers.
Lakes, wetlands and the rivers that snake through the meadows complete the visual feast of this very special place.
A massive wild fire in 1988 burned 40% of the park. Some mountainsides were untouched by the fire and boast large stands of old growth forest. In the fire affected areas young trees have taken root among the remains of their charred ancestors, growing thick and lush. Occasionally you can see a more mature tree, miraculously spared by the fire, standing tall among it's younger brothers.
Lakes, wetlands and the rivers that snake through the meadows complete the visual feast of this very special place.
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